Tuesday 29 March 2011

Pasto, Colombia

We walked around Pasto looking for something to do. At 9pm the sky was black and under it the grey and empty streets felt post apocalyptic. Piles of rubbish, and a ghostly quiet; all dogs, drunk beggars and nothing.

Darkened faces and dim shop lights, behind black and metal bars. On Monday night there was nothing to do in Pasto so we gave up.

The next morning I went for a walk alone. The city´s mountain air was fresh, and the sun glinted off glass and metal window frames onto transformed and crowded streets. I walked aimlessly about the city. I stopped to eat empanadas with salsa that tasted of water and drank coffee, which was black, but tasted only of sugar.

The multi-coloured dome of a church caught my eye and I turned a corner towards it.

I stopped. Men were shouting at each other. Two men standing on a truck, piled high with metal poles, and two others across the street. Voices rose again. I lingered on the corner, not wanting to get closer, but with that school yard fascination holding me there, not wanting to miss a fight.

Then the shouting stopped. Two of the men started running away, and from behind the truck a man followed, his arm extended, holding a gun.

I ran away too; though less dramatically than I would have liked as I was wearing flip flops that didn´t quite fit, so instead of diving or sprinting away, as one might imagine oneself doing from a gun fight, I just kind of slowly and incompetently skipped.

A single shot was fired, and a sharp boom filled the air. I can´t tell you what happened though. I was hiding in a shop, my heart beating in my mouth.



Approaching Pasto.

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